The Chefs Table-Rocklin, California

 

There are hidden jewels, there are lost treasures, and there are riches right in front of you that you fail to explore. I’m talking about that little neighborhood eatery you’ve eschewed for the big, shiny, corporate clones. The ones with the servers fresh out of training that hover over you, smiling that annoying smile while repeatedly gushing “Amazing,” “Excellent,” and “Super,” during their corporate-mandated up-sell speech. I admit, I’ve fallen victim to my own laissez-faire too often, not venturing down the road less traveled.

But today, I ventured, not to another country, state, or even county. The Chef’s Table is 4.3 miles from my house, in Rocklin, Ca., near Applebees, Johnny Garlics, Chevy’s, Chili’s, and so on… Adding to my sense of discovery, new owner Erick Johnson and his partner had the good sense to buy this restaurant and keep it right where it is. A venue that lives up the moniker, where the best seat in the house is anywhere inside the front door. A place that has trained chefs who cook real food that isn’t wheeled in from the Sysco truck ready to be defrosted and reheated for your dining experience.

Erick also had the foresight to keep most of the staff including Chef Mitch Higgins. Chef Mitch grew up locally and attended American River College earning degrees in Culinary Arts and History. “ I wanted a backup plan in case the food thing didn’t work out.” He explained of the history degree. This love of food and history led him to Italy, where he spent three months soaking in the culture and food of the North. After finishing school, he landed right where you’d expect, making pizzas, eventually at Sacramento’s trendy Hot Italian. “I love making pizza,” Chef Mitch illuminated unabashedly “if we open another restaurant I want a wood-fired pizza oven!” The regulars at TCT that show up with an almost religious fervor hope he gets his wish.

 

From pizzas to eclectic New American in 2009 as then Chef and Owner David Hill made Chef Mitch and Brahm the TV Installer the first hires at his new venture, The Chefs Table (Brahm was immediately promoted to the front of house and is still working there). Chef David’s menu had a decidedly southern slant with the occasional whimsical twist. His legendary fried chicken is still on the menu, and the wildly popular PB&J Burger (Nope, not a typo, Peanut Butter and Jelly Burger) can still be ordered if you’re…adventurous. The lunch menu changes seasonally, and on this day  featured Carnitas Soft Tacos, Beer Battered Pesto Fries alongside Pan Seared Loch Duart Salmon Salad and 5 Hour Braised Short Rib Sandwich. (See their complete menu at http://thechefstablerocklin.com/menu.html)

In 2013, Chef David was looking to move in other directions, not wanting to see a favorite spot leave, Erick, and a partner stepped in and bought the place. “I was a customer and a fan.” says Erick.“ We wanted to give our patrons that Cheers-like local place to come and feel comfortable”. With his background as a Food and Beverage Manager at several local Country Clubs, making people comfortable is something he knows instinctively. You can see it in his welcoming smile as you enter, and soon, even more so when the cozy little spot expands next door and nearly doubles in size. Featuring a full bar, a diverse selection of beers on tap, and a commitment to fresh, locally sourced ingredients, The Chefs Table is gaining a cult-like following that will make remembering it’s there, simple, but getting in without a reservation, a challenge.

Here is Chef Mitch’s recipe for his spin on the southern classic Shrimp and Grits pictured above:

Pan Seared Chilean Seabass and Anson Mills Heritage Cheddar Grits with Pancetta, Tabasco Beurre Blanc, Old Bay Toasted Benne, CilantroServes 4

Grits (Can make 1 day ahead or be made same day):

1 cup        Anson Mills Coarse Ground Yellow Grits (Can substitute Bob’s Red Mill Corn Grits)
4 cups        Water, Room Temperature
1/4 cup        Pancetta, Small Diced
1/2 cup        Yellow Onion, Small Diced
1/4 cup        Heavy Cream
1 1/2 cups    Cheddar, Shredded
1 Tablespoon    Olive Oil
To Taste        Salt and Pepper

With a whisk, combine the grits and water in a small mixing bowl.  Soak the grits overnight.  If you do not have enough time, soak for at least four hours.  The longer you can soak your grits, the creamier they will become as the starch from the corn leaches into the water.

Into a pot over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of Olive Oil and 1/4 cup of the small diced pancetta.  Render most of the fat out of the pancetta.  Pour off half the fat and retain the remainder in the pot.  Add the yellow onion and sauté until the onions are translucent and the pancetta is crispy, about 3 minutes.  To the pot, add the soaked grits and all of their soaking liquid.  Stirring consistently making sure to scrape down the sides of the pot, bring the grits to a boil over medium heat.  Turn the heat off and cover for 20 minutes.  Uncover and return the pot to medium low heat.  Continue to cook the grits until the liquid is creamy and grits have soften, about 5-10 minutes.

If serving right away, add the 1/4 cup heavy cream and 1 1/2 cups cheddar to the grits.  Constantly stir until the cheddar has melted.  Season with salt and pepper to your liking.

If you are cooking the grits ahead of time, cool on a sheet tray.  When you are ready to reheat the grits to serve, heat up 1/2 cup heavy cream until boiling.  To this, incorporate the grits making sure to break apart any clumps that may have formed.  Once the cream is fully incorporate and the grits have been reheated, mix in the shredded cheddar cheese.  Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Old Bay Toasted Benne (Make ahead and serve at room temperature):

1/4 cup Anson Mills Benne Seed (Can substitute sesame seeds)
1 Tablespoon Old Bay
1/2 teaspoon Olive Oil
Pinch Salt

Place a sauté pan on the stove over high heat.  Add 1/2 teaspoon olive oil to the pan and heat until smoking.  Remove pan from the heat and add in the benne, old bay, and salt, shaking the pan constantly in order to prevent from burning the benne.  Leave in pan until the seeds and old bay become fragrant, about 15 seconds, and cool onto a sheet pan or plate.  Reserve for dinner.

Tabasco Beurre Blanc (make an hour before you plan on serving dinner):

2            Shallots, Rough Diced
6 cloves        Garlic, smashed
1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
4 Sprigs        Thyme
1 Cup        White Wine
1 Cup        Heavy Cream
1/2-1 Cups    Butter, cold, cut into 1/2″ pieces
To Taste        Tabasco
To Taste        Salt and Pepper

In a small sauce pot over medium heat, sauté the shallots and garlic in 1 tablespoon olive oil until they are fragrant- about 2 minutes.  Add the white wine and thyme sprigs and reduce the liquid by half.  Add the cream and reduce the liquid by half, leaving about 3/4 cup of flavored liquid.  Strain this through a fine mesh sieve, pressing all the flavor out of the shallots and garlic.  Using an immersion blender or by hand using a whisk, incorporate the butter one piece at a time into the Beurre Blanc base until the sauce has thickened.  To this, add as much or as little Tabasco as you’d like and season with salt and pepper.  I like this sauce to be a little looser than normal and have a nice spicy bite so I use about 3/4 cup of butter and 1 Tablespoon of Tabasco.

Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass:

4 – 6 oz filets        Chilean Sea Bass
2 Tablespoons    Olive Oil

Pat each filet dry and season with a liberal amount of salt and pepper.  Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat and add olive oil.  When the pan is near smoking, add the Sea Bass and lower the heat to medium.  Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side, until a golden sear is attained.  I like to finish my filets in a 500 degree oven until the fish is done, generally 2-5 minutes depending on the thickness of the filet.

To Serve:

Place Grits in a mound in the center of a large bowl.  Pour the Beurre Blanc around the outside of the grits.  Place Seabass on top of the grits in the middle of the plate.  Garnish with the old bay toasted benne and chopped cilantro leaves.