Hunting the Elusive Morel

What’s the first thing that comes to mind when someone mentions food from the Pacific Northwest? Salmon, or at least seafood of some sort? Trendy Seattle restaurants? White dudes in dreadlocks serving coffee smoked duck? Fishmongers tossing sea monsters around like my SF Giants during infield warmup? Yep to all of the above. They’re all good too, but on this trip I was after some of the regions’ other fare that may not be as well know in other parts. Foods with names that don’t sound like actual food. Fiddlehead Ferns, Scapes, Kohlrabi, and Mizuna to name a few, most of them available at one or more of the neighborhood Farmers Markets.

But I was after a more elusive prize; The Morel Mushroom, small, yet extraordinarily expensive and hard to find in the wild. This little gold/black/brownish nugget looks like a cross between a tiny pine cone and an acorn and costs $40 a pound in high-end grocers like Whole Foods or Berkeley Bowl. Now here is the funny part; Whole Foods in Vancouver Washington did not have them in May. Neither did the farmers market near Portland or a specialty grocer also in Vancouver Wa. I couldn’t find the little mouseparty hats until I got back to the Whole Foods near my house in NorCal. Hence the subtitle.

What I’m about to say may sound strange, even blasphemous, to many of you considering I’m writing a food blog but; I don’t really like most mushrooms! I rank most of those slimy, over-sauteed, crimini or button mushrooms right up there with okra, and when they’re left raw, to me, they bring nothing to the party. I used to joke with my kids that the mushrooms on a pizza were made from the pieces of tires left on the freeway (I had ‘em going until they were about 8). But Morels are a different story altogether. Given love and proper handling they are what everyone says when describing any of the lesser varieties of spores; earthy, warm, umami,  yadda, yadda, yadda. They taste good with meat and risotto, trust me…

So now for the informational (yawn) portion of the blog. Better than that, here is a link to everything Morel related, or so they claim;  http://thegreatmorel.com

Here is a recipe I developed that is my absolute favorite. The buttery Gorgonzola Dolce* and Red Wine Sauce with shallots makes the Filet and Morel a perfect bite. Try this sauce, you will love it!

Morel and Filet Mignon Skewers with Cabernet/Gorgonzola sauce

(2) 4oz Filet Mignon

(4) Large Morel brushed clean with a soft brush

(1) Tbls Gorgonzola Dolce*

(1) cup Cabernet or other good quality red wine

(1) Finely diced small shallot

(2) Tbls beef demi-glace or ¼ cup liquid au jus concentrate (such as Johnnys)

(4) medium Pearl Onions outer skin removed

(1/8) cup Olive Oil plus some for saute

(1) clove minced garlic

(4) 4 inch skewers

Pinch sugar

Salt and pepper

Garlic powder-optional

 

Season the Filets and let sit on a plate until room temperature. Place the onions in a baking dish with the olive oil, minced garlic and season with salt and pepper. Place in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes uncovered. When done remove from heat and transfer to a plate.

Add a teaspoon of olive oil to a small sauce pan with the shallot and saute for a minute or so over medium heat. Add the red wine, and demi or au jus. When the pan begins to boil lower the heat enough so as to reduce the liquid, but not boil too rapidly. Reduce by half and add the gorgonzola. Add the morels and gently braise for 2 minutes then remove them. Adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper and sugar if necessary. Remove from the heat. In a hot pan or grill, sear the Filet for 1-1/2 to 2 minutes per side for rare to mid rare. Transfer to a plate, let rest and then cut each piece in half.

Skewer one piece of meat, onion and morel on each skewer. Place in hot pan or grill for 30 seconds and serve, topped with the delicious sauce.
Enjoy-RTK

 

*Gorgonzola Dolce (Dolce means young in Italian) is a buttery, creamy, cows milk cheese that is mild and delicious. It melts into sauces well and is fantastic on roasted meats, or with crackers and charcuterie.
Thanks to Whole Foods in Roseville Ca. for allowing me to drag my camera equipment in the store and shoot the Morel pictures.