Ono, it’s not Opah, Ahi or Aku,
It’s Wahoo in Oahu

Mekaji (swordfish)- Charthouse Waikiki

 When I plan to visit Oahu or any of the Islands, my first thoughts are always about fish; where to catch ‘em, places to buy’em, and how to cook ‘em. I’ve been much more successful at the find, cook and eat scenarios. There is something about being at the boat dock at 5:30 in the morning, negotiating 12 foot seas, relentless heat and humidity that dampens the mood a bit. This fact is doubly true when all you come home with is a receipt for $250 and a queasy stomach. Realizing that all of these facts are a distinct possibility, it is important to familiarize oneself with the intricacies of ordering your next meal.  Navigating any menu that serves local Hawaiian fish can be confusing for anyone without a degree in Island-speak. As Steve Martin once joked about the French in a Saturday Night Live skit, “It’s like they have a different word for everything!” And he was right; they do. That fact aside you can hardly go wrong with almost any of the strange and all too often similar names for the finned residents of Oahu’s coastal habitat.  Here is a handy interactive visual-aid for us mainlanders. You can access this at http://www.hawaii-seafood.org/wild-hawaii-fish

 

The more daunting task is to find a place that can prepare each one correctly. We scoured the island on a recent trip, on a quest to find the best fish tacos. This took us to the North Shore and a popular taco purveyor called “Killer Tacos”. They were not… killer. Unless your definition of killer fish tacos, in the North Shore of Oahu happens to be, Alaskan cod. As I headed out the door with a dumbfounded look on my face the manager blurted out “Alaskan cod is cheaper!”, To which I replied “Raise your damn prices, this is Hawaii!”

Over the past few months I’ve had the opportunity to sample many of the islands most well-known, and some of its best-kept secrets. Here are a few my favorites and my recipe for Miso Glazed Mahi-Mahi.

Nico’s Pier 38

Nico’s large, open-air restaurant and fish market are a tradition among Honolulu’s diners including everyone from tourists to office personnel, fisherman and dockworkers. Located on Pier 38 a few miles away from the bustle and resort traffic of downtown Waikiki (not all traffic, just resort traffic), this iconic restaurant features local favorites like Ahi Furikaki, Lomi Salmon and Poke bowls. A look at the special of the day may feature French Hawaiian creations like Chef Nico’s Pan seared mahi-mahi with seafood caper beurre blanc over saffron vegetable pilaf. Chef Nico’s tagline is “French taste, Hawaiian style “and you can be certain his menu won’t stop at the water’s edge. Beef stew, Loco Moco, hamburgers, and pesto chicken Caesar salad can all be had either by ordering at the bar (my destination) or, plate style, at one of the several registers at the counter. Patrons have the option of dining inside under the fans, or out in the warm Hawaiian sun and breezy island Tradewinds. And I always make sure to visit the fish market next door to pick up some fresh off the boat, local fish. (Try the Monchong)

 

Uncle’s Fish Market and Grill

Curiously enough, located just across the parking lot from Nico’s, is uncle’s Fish Market and Grill. Uncle’s is a more traditional restaurant venue with a small bar and a display case of its fresh fish found in the restaurant. The fish-centric menu features many local favorites including several Ahi preparations; miso glazed butterfish and the local favorite, Uncles Original Poke Tower. Sushi rice with Uncles Poke, guacamole, and ahi tartare topped with Masako sliced nori and served with tortilla chips. While it’s not an inexpensive stop for lunch or dinner, preparations are tasty, and the fish is always fresh. Most dishes will run you in the $15 to the $30 range.

Roy’s of Waikiki

  It’s Roy’s, and it’s in Waikiki, you just have to go there. Yes, it’s on the expensive side and yes, it’s where people sit at the outdoor bar to be seen. But it’s worth shelling out a few extra bucks and hanging with the wannabe’s once in a while to have something you don’t, or can’t get every day. A perfect example is their Misoyaki Butterfish, stunning on the plate and the tongue.

I recommend the Chef’s Tasting Menu which varies, but on this night came with Macadamia Nut Crusted mahi-mahi, Misoyaki Butterfish, Braised Short Ribs and the Canoe Appetizer for Two. Like I said, you’re going to shell out a few extra bucks, but it’s well worth it. Parking is horrible; the bartenders are arrogant, but I’ll be back.

Miso-Glazed Butterfish is something I made while staying in Waikiki after having it at Uncles, Roy’s and The Signature Prime Steak and Seafood Restaurant on the top floor of the Ala Moana Hotel.  Butterfish is Black Cod, and the flesh is indeed soft as butter, so much so that it can be mistaken for being undercooked. Some diners may find this attribute offensive so when I cooked it for the first time I used Mahi-Mahi. The recipe is simple but finding the Yellow Light Miso Paste may require a trip to the Asian Supermarket[1]. I have seen this recipe with red miso paste also, so don’t stress if you can’t find Yellow Light Miso. I guarantee once you’ve tried this it will be a permanent addition to your cooking arsenal.

 

Miso Glazed Mahi-Mahi

1/4 cup sake

1/4 cup miso paste

1/4 cup mirin (Japanese sweet wine)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons brown sugar

4 (6 ounce) Mahi-Mahi filets

1/4 cup chopped scallion

¼ cup toasted sesame seeds

1. Whisk together the sake, miso paste, mirin, soy sauce, and brown sugar in a bowl. Add the Mahi-Mahi, and allow to rest for 5 minutes before flipping the fillets over in the marinade to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
2. Bring Mahi-Mahi to room temperature, about 15 minutes, then remove the fish from the marinade and shake off excess. Save the remaining marinade.
3. Set your oven to broil and place the filets on a broiler pan. Cook on broil for about 3 minutes a side.
4. Meanwhile pour the reserved marinade in a small sauce pan and heat through.
5. Transfer the fish to a plate, spoon or brush heated marinade over the top and garnish with the scallion and sesame seeds.

 

Enjoy RTK

[1] Score! After writing this blog I found Mild Yellow Miso Paste in the refrigerated section of Trader Joes